It's been 60 hours since I arrived home to Connecticut from my 47 day adventure in Argentina.
And now, I have a LOT of thoughts.
I am glad to be home....It's not so much that I was homesick. I kept in touch with a lot of you while I was gone, which made it easier to be away. But I have to say, I missed America. I never knew how much I liked the American lifestyle or how well I relate to Americans until I was abroad.
A list of things I missed:
1. Throwing toilet paper in the toilet. (Perhaps that's TMI, but that's life.)
2. Being able to be in and out of a restaurant in an hour for a full meal instead of 2 hours for a coffee.
3. Knowing that the cops are there to help you.
4. Knowing that when you get in a cab the meter will not suddenly jump 6 pesos in 2 seconds and that your cab driver will take you to where you asked. [Note: this was only one time, but I was warned about sketchy cabs when I first got to Buenos Aires. I was safe. Don't worry.]
5. Using a wallet in a purse instead of reaching into my money belt every ten seconds (which looked like I took my money out of my underwear.)
6. Drinking water from the tap.
7. Consistent heat (or air conditioning) and hot water. Invaluable.
As I readjust to life in America, I have to say that the past 6.5 weeks were absolutely incredible. To think that I was in the city, in the mountains, at the waterfalls, walking on glaciers and sailing to the end of the world all in a month and a half is overwhelming. But I did it.
In the most modest way possible, I am so proud of myself. I have wanted to take this trip for the past two years and finally I made it happen. It may have been planned a little late for a trip of its magnitude, but I almost think it's better. I proved to myself how badly I wanted it and got my act together for the best post-graduation memory ever.
As for my goals for this trip, I think I accomplished all of them.
Speaking Spanish. When I first arrived I thought that my Spanish was ok. Definitely sufficient to get by in a Spanish-speaking country. And it was enough...to get by. The thing is, I was taught something between Spanish Spanish and Mexican Spanish in high school - which is why a lot of people thought I was from Latin America or Puerto Rican. For all those who just laughed that someone might think I'm Puerto Rican, you had the same reaction I did. Ridiculous.
During week two, I had started speaking Spanish (well, castellano - Argentine Spanish) literally all day. Morning til night with my friend Carlos from Sao Paolo, Brazil. My head pounded in pain. It was as if my brain was resisting an English detox and week two was the equivalent of humpday. But after two straight days of headaches I never wanted to speak Spanish again. So the English-speaking friends I had avoided in the beginning - in the name of learning the language - I began to seek out instead.
But once I started traveling to cities outside Buenos Aires, the locals I met were a) easier to understand and b) more willing to help me with my castellano. I had some vocabulary lessons from my friend Nacho who arranged all of my Mendozan excursions. When people gave me a chance to make mistakes, I learned from them.
Traveling really pushed me to perfect my castellano. If I thought people didn't speak English in Buenos Aires, the locals of the other cities showed me. With no choice and no pressure, I was really able to speak freely and practice. And people were generally impressed that I had only learned Spanish in school and not in another country. By the end of my trip I felt pretty fluent. I transitioned easily between English and Spanish when I needed to and I sounded a bit more like a South American citizen (most people thought I was from Venezuela in my last week and a half).
Now, I really feel like I speak Spanish. My teacher from my junior year of high school had convinced me a long time ago that the only way to truly learn a language is to go to a country and speak it. He also believed that you have to go for at least 3-4 months.
After going to Argentina I agree that traveling abroad the way to learn a language the way people actually speak it. Spanish is a language in which slang is deeply pervasive to the point where countries have entirely different words for objects and verbs - let alone different pronunciations for common words. As for the time requirement, I think it depends on the person and their drive. I think I learned the language. I'm back to being fluent!
Using the language, I experienced the cultures of multiple regions of Argentina and obviously had a ton of fun.
But the most valuable lessons I learned were ones of independence. I navigated a country on my own. I bought airlines tickets, booked hostels, and managed 6 cities in 6 weeks. I went alone but made a TON of new friends from all over the world. From my friends, I learned all about international customs and a few words from other languages.
I learned to hear my gut and I have actually started to trust it. I've learned to do the things I want instead of the things I feel I should do. For example, when everyone told me to spend my second and final day in El Calafate at El Chalten instead of on the glacier boat I chose to do what I really wanted. And I loved it. YAY progress with decision-making! I also learned to relax and go with the flow and be bit more spontaneous. The best experiences are not always planned.
I guess you could say this was a successful "independence" study.
As much as I learned while traveling alone, I haven't decided if I'd do it again. I think next time I'd prefer to bring along a partner in crime and share the experience with someone. I also haven't decided if I'll travel for that long a period of time again. I guess it all depends on where I go.
A lot of travelers I met abroad were traveling for months at a time. Sometimes I felt that I was less of a world traveler because I missed home or I was only away from a month and a half. I did realize that I love home and as much as I want to see the world, it's ok to see the world in shorter spurts. It's ok to like home and there is no right way to explore the globe.
And so, I have come out of Argentina having learned a lot about myself and a lot Spanish. But most importantly, I had a fantastic time doing it.
Thank you all for accompanying me on my journey. Thank you to Rachel for taking care of me when I first got to BsAs and for lending me a winter coat. Thank you to Fernando, Alan and Sima for making me at home in BsAs. And a final thank you to my amazing parents for supporting me in this endeavor.
For the last time: BESOS!!!!!
Argentina: My Independence Study
Hola todos! While away on my little six week adventure, I will be missing you all. And while I will have to wait to come back to hear all about your lives, while I'm gone I can at least keep you updated about my travels and my journey to test my independence (and Spanish). In the words of my friend Suzanne "who needs television when I can watch Ruthie's life?" Well, using this blog I hope to live up to her expectations by being as entertaining as she claims. You all will be the judges of that.
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Last Licks
So this is it. The final countdown. I arrived back in Buenos Aires 24 hours ago, and I have 24 hours until I leave. I am definitely excited to come home. But that doesn't mean I didn't have a total blast here.
People seem to think the two are mutually exclusive. That if I want to come home it must mean that I didn't have a good time. Au contraire. I just feel that I accomplished my goals. I did what I came to do and now I am ready to return to the American lifestyle I didn't know I loved until I left.
But before I jetset home, I decided to have my last licks in Buenos Aires. Last night I had a traditional Argentine meal at approximately 11:15pm. None of my friends are in town because Monday is a national holiday and everyone has a long weekend. So...there were literally zero people to go out with. I was bummed that my last Saturday night in Buenos Aires was so lame, but it's not like I was deprived of the BA nightlife scene while I was here. Nothing lost, nothing gained.
I guess the perk was that at 9:30 am when my alarm went off I was conscious. I went shopping and - drumroll please -----------------------------------------------------I BOUGHT BOOTS. After searching the entire city top to bottom, I bought my boots. They were the first ones I ever liked, naturally. It's just like me though. I had to know. I have two pairs of boots from Argentina and I can't wait to show them off to all of you back home. One short, grey pair of high heels and one tall, tan pair of medium heels. I know you wanted the details. They're even better in person.
I wandered around Avenida Florida for a bit. It seemed really empty. Either I was awake before the entire city, or I am one of the only people here on the holiday weekend. Maybe a bit of both.
Then, I had plans to meet my friend Jan from Calafate at 1:30 so we could go to the San Telmo Fair together. I had wasted the entire morning because I got my shopping done so fast. But, of course, I had wandered too far from any subway stop. It was 1:30 when I first got on a subway and I was freaking out. There was no way she would still be there when I got there. I switched from the D line to the C line. It was already 1:40. But sitting in my car was a familiar face. I never forget a face. Apparently neither does this guy. We had met for 10 seconds on the bus to the National Park in Ushuaia. He was going to the fair too.
So he and I ventured on, looking for Jan. No sign. We decided to go to the fair and see if we could find her.
SO MANY PEOPLE. There was no way.
Frenchman and I wandered for a while, talking about Argentina and travel and the history of the fair. It turns out, he's a Parisian Jew. Kinda cool. And it also turns out that in the middle of talking about keeping kosher you could literally bump into...Jan!!
The three of us walked around for a while until Frenchman had to leave to take a bus to Iguazu. Jan and I were on a mission to find all of the last presents we were looking for. We did it! But we also had a great time looking at all the knicknacks people were selling and just chit-chatting the whole way.
We also stopped for a short meal that ended up being an hour and a half. We forgot. We're in Argentina. There is no such thing as a short meal.
But we made it through and walked through the antique part of the fair. I don't know who buys that stuff, but it's fun to look at. And as the sun set we bought our final purchases and came out the other side of the fair right in front of the Casa Rosada.
It was perfectly poetic. The Casa Rosada and the Catedral were the first places I visited here in Buenos Aires. It only makes sense that these should be the last landmarks I saw. So I say goodbye to the city the same way I said hello.
Just writing now, it is a bit sad that my adventure is coming to an end. It was one wild ride. Full of awesomeness. Tomorrow is my last chance to tie up loose ends, say goodbye to my friends and speak some good old castellano Spanish.
I promise to make the most of it.
More reflections tomorrow.
BESOS!
People seem to think the two are mutually exclusive. That if I want to come home it must mean that I didn't have a good time. Au contraire. I just feel that I accomplished my goals. I did what I came to do and now I am ready to return to the American lifestyle I didn't know I loved until I left.
But before I jetset home, I decided to have my last licks in Buenos Aires. Last night I had a traditional Argentine meal at approximately 11:15pm. None of my friends are in town because Monday is a national holiday and everyone has a long weekend. So...there were literally zero people to go out with. I was bummed that my last Saturday night in Buenos Aires was so lame, but it's not like I was deprived of the BA nightlife scene while I was here. Nothing lost, nothing gained.
I guess the perk was that at 9:30 am when my alarm went off I was conscious. I went shopping and - drumroll please -----------------------------------------------------I BOUGHT BOOTS. After searching the entire city top to bottom, I bought my boots. They were the first ones I ever liked, naturally. It's just like me though. I had to know. I have two pairs of boots from Argentina and I can't wait to show them off to all of you back home. One short, grey pair of high heels and one tall, tan pair of medium heels. I know you wanted the details. They're even better in person.
I wandered around Avenida Florida for a bit. It seemed really empty. Either I was awake before the entire city, or I am one of the only people here on the holiday weekend. Maybe a bit of both.
Then, I had plans to meet my friend Jan from Calafate at 1:30 so we could go to the San Telmo Fair together. I had wasted the entire morning because I got my shopping done so fast. But, of course, I had wandered too far from any subway stop. It was 1:30 when I first got on a subway and I was freaking out. There was no way she would still be there when I got there. I switched from the D line to the C line. It was already 1:40. But sitting in my car was a familiar face. I never forget a face. Apparently neither does this guy. We had met for 10 seconds on the bus to the National Park in Ushuaia. He was going to the fair too.
So he and I ventured on, looking for Jan. No sign. We decided to go to the fair and see if we could find her.
SO MANY PEOPLE. There was no way.
Frenchman and I wandered for a while, talking about Argentina and travel and the history of the fair. It turns out, he's a Parisian Jew. Kinda cool. And it also turns out that in the middle of talking about keeping kosher you could literally bump into...Jan!!
The three of us walked around for a while until Frenchman had to leave to take a bus to Iguazu. Jan and I were on a mission to find all of the last presents we were looking for. We did it! But we also had a great time looking at all the knicknacks people were selling and just chit-chatting the whole way.
We also stopped for a short meal that ended up being an hour and a half. We forgot. We're in Argentina. There is no such thing as a short meal.
But we made it through and walked through the antique part of the fair. I don't know who buys that stuff, but it's fun to look at. And as the sun set we bought our final purchases and came out the other side of the fair right in front of the Casa Rosada.
It was perfectly poetic. The Casa Rosada and the Catedral were the first places I visited here in Buenos Aires. It only makes sense that these should be the last landmarks I saw. So I say goodbye to the city the same way I said hello.
Just writing now, it is a bit sad that my adventure is coming to an end. It was one wild ride. Full of awesomeness. Tomorrow is my last chance to tie up loose ends, say goodbye to my friends and speak some good old castellano Spanish.
I promise to make the most of it.
More reflections tomorrow.
BESOS!
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Sea Lions and Penguins and Huskies, Oh My!
Apparently, Ushuaia is the place to ski. But, I don't ski.
So instead, I spent my day with lots of animals in the Arctic climate of Ushuaia. I took a boat ride in the Beagle Channal for a few hours. Whooo, it was really cold yesterday. But we sailed right up to the island where the sea lions lay all day long. They are so funny-looking. They're really fat and they fight with each other, trying to push one another off the rocks, and they sound like honking cars all the while. Really, they are uglier than they are cute. I find I prefer seals to sea lions, though it was cool to see them in their natural habitat.
The boat pulled away and we journeyed on to the lighthouse at the end of the world. Unless you pay 25 grand to go to Antarctica, this is the most southern lighthouse on the face of the earth. Pretty sweet. I was even farther south than when I was in the park yesterday.
We drove on and came to the island with the long-necked penguins. Technically, they aren't penguins. They just look like penguins with long necks. But they've got one up on penguins. They can fly. They're beautiful birds and I was within five feet of one of them. On our next stop we got off on a little island so that we were flanked by Chile on the left and Argentina on the right. Our guide taught us a bit about the indigenous people who first settled at the end of the world.
It was a relaxing morning...something to do. Not the most super excursion I'd been on but fun to see the animals.
In the afternoon I got to watch more tennis! Wooohooo! I watched RAFA kick some booty. And David Nalbandian was playing. The Argentines love him (because he's Argentine). What's funny is that they LOVE him and don't even care about Del Potro. It's funny because Del Potro has actually won a grand slam, yet they call Nalbandian King David.
Last night I had a great outing in Tierra del Mayor. I went dogsledding and snow-shoeing!!! When we first got there we had a little time to meet the dogs. Our sled was led by five white dogs and our leader Husky, Arnie. We rode about 2 kilometers. The dogs are really friendly to people but they do not like each other. Territorial is an understatement. I thought they were gonna tear each other apart with their teeth when we pulled over and they had to sit together.
We had a nice little dinner around a campfire with mulled wine. It's amazing how in the middle of a frozen wasteland a good fire - and some mulled wine - can keep 20 people warm. One of our guides, Carolina, brought out her guitar and they were singing classic Spanish tunes. She could tell that my friend and I felt left out being from the States. So she sang Proud Mary. It was priceless listening to her do her English accent. And then after dinner we snow-shoed back. It was a nice little walk and snow-shoeing is pretty easy. You just walk normally. I was a little bummed we didn't have the old-fashioned tennis rackets on, but what are you gonna do? The advances of technology to make things easier. Damn.
And now I am waiting for my flight back to Buenos Aires.
Two nights until I fly home!!
BESOS!
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Ushuaia: the end of the world
Yesterday I arrived in the southernmost point of Argentina/the world. Google it on a map. It's pretty crazy that I'm here. And I didnt make up the name. It's real.
I arrived at Antarctica Hostel and immediately met up with two friends, one who I had made in Salta and an Israeli guy I had met in Calafate. The Israeli guy and I went out to get our passports stamped so that I have proof I was at the end of the world, and then to eat. Did I mention I was starving? It was practically blizzarding outside, which seemed normal to me. My Israeli friend was so excited to see snow.
At least now, there was a reason for the cold. Although, to be honeset, other places in this country were colder. It doesn't make any sense. I am in Antarctica and I'm not that cold. In fact, I can go outside without gloves and be comfortable. Silly. I met a ton of people almost immediately here. Everyone is super friendly. We had a mate circle, which I loved and just talked. Then, my night was made whole. Tennis was on tv. I watched Rafael Nadal kick some swiss butt when he beat Wawrinka in straight sets at the Rogers Masters in Toronto.
But I sidetrack. Ushuaia.
I woke up at a decent hour this morning to take the bus to El Parque Nacional de Tierra del Fuego. My friend Monique and I hiked the entire trail. The park is really beautiful all covered in snow. We trudged through the trails and slid down others. We saw some red foxes and some rabbits, too. It was a nice daytime activity for a few hours. We walked all the way to the end of the earth which is just so cool. It is the fartherst point you can walk to on earth! - well unless you're a scientist and get special permission and a team to go to actual Antarctica.
By 3pm we were back on the bus to town and pretty tired. Hiking is awesome. I'm actually a huge fan. But the snow makes it harder and we were pooped.
It was a pretty simple day. I think I'm winding down at the same pace as my trip. Still enjoying my last few days, but I'm happy to just relax in the winter weather and sip mate with my new friends. And listen to some Christmas music. I can't help it. It feels like winter to me. Hence, Rudolph the Red Nosed Reigndeer.
BESOS!
Icebergs and Glaciers
After walking on glaciers Monday, I was having a tough time deciding what to do on Tuesday since all of the activities in El Calafate are full day adventures. Originally, I had three days planned, but it turns out I had to pick between hiking in El Chalten and going on a boat ride through the rest of the glaciers.
Hands down, everyone said to go to Chalten. But something was nagging at me. I came to Calafate to see glaciers. So I decided that even if it would be repetitive, that the boat ride was what I wanted.
Boy am I thrilled that I went with my gut! It was an absolutely incredible day. I left the hostel before 7am to book my ticket on the boat...a bit of last minute planning. But when I got to the Catamaran the family from Barcelona that had been on my minitrekking trip was in line for the boat.
It's funny how you can just connect with people. I mean, yes, this family was on my minitrekking tour. But they were in another group. I don't even think I said two words to any of the three of them all day. And yet, when I saw them in line for the boat we all got so excited to see each other. The power of a familiar face.
And so we spent the day together on the deck of the boat. So many people stayed inside. I was shocked. It felt AMAZING to be outside cruising the channels of Lake Argentina. It was extremely windy. So much so that the son of the family, Arturo, and I leaned back into the wind and it held us up.
Soon we were on our way to the Upsala glacier, the largest of the glaciers down here. As we sailed through the canal, we started to see icebergs!! All I could think of was Titanic. Not in the scary, oh-my-goodness-I'm-going-to-die kind of way, but in the wow icebergs are huge and no wonder it tore a hole in a cruiseship. The icebergs started out flat and wide, like huge blue-white stepping stones in the green water. Oh yeah, today the water was green - halfway between mint and aquamarine. Actually, exactly like opal green. I know opals aren't green, but when the lights hits them there is a certain streak of green that shines. That was the color of my entire view since there was water pretty much as far as the eye could see.
We made it to the Upsala glacier. It's three times the size of Perito Moreno and four times the size of Buenos Aires. We could only get as close at 15 kilometers because of all of the icebergs in the way. It was a vast vast plain of white, like a jagged bridge adjoining two mountains. We only idled for a few minutes because we were so far away before venturing on to the Spegazzini glacier.
Through the Spegazzini Canal we saw UNBELIEVABLE glaciers. I wanted to hop off the boat and climb on them. There were icebergs with arches. Icebergs with caves. Icebergs in funny shapes. Icebergs that just towered above the catamaran. The icebergs were the same sparkling blue as Perito Moreno, but free-floating.Then we arrived at the Spegazzini glacier. I think this one is the prettiest. We crept up to it so that we were only about 200 meters away. The glacier cascades down the side of a beautiful mountain peak until it flattens out on the water. And....WE SAW IT RUPTURE. I am the luckiest girl ever. I couldn't believe I watched two different glaciers rupture. And this one was waaaay up close. We felt the repurcussions on the boat as we rocked back and forth. My Spanish family and I were speechless. We took so many photos together and of each other that everyone thought I was their daughter. Well, they adopted me for the day.
The boat backtracked through the Spegazzini Canal to our third stop, Perito Moreno. I wasn't that excited since I had already seen the glacier for the entire day before. That'll show me. We saw the third and only other visible side of the glacier and.....the biggest most grand rupture anyone has ever seen (ok maybe not anyone ever, but yeah). An entire wall of the glacier, from top to three quarters of the way down cracked and just slid down in to the water crashing and busting.
My day was complete. Clearly, I made the right choice.
That night I met up with Jan and some other friends in the hostel for my last night there. Jan, another guy from Texas, a British couple, one Argentine and I all went out to eat. We wolfed down our food and then sat. Waiting for the Argentine to eat his little personal pizza. We were all on pins and needles. Looking at each other like "he's going to take a bite soon, I know he is." I finally couldn't handle it and went to the bathroom. Came back. The same piece of pizza was on his fork from before. Seriously? I know Argentines like to eat slowly and like indulge in their food, but we were all clearly waiting for just him. Cultural differences, haha.
I was sad to leave Calafate the next day. I really LOVE the town and my hostel was so nice and clean and warm. I slept in a sports bra and pj pants my last night. Amazing. It takes so little to make me happy.
But onwards to Ushuaia and the end of the world!
BESOS!
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Walkin on, Walkin on, broken glaciers (doo doo doo doo)
I skip a mostly uneventful weekend to bring you my Patagonian adventures from Monday in El Calafate:
Wow. Another day of crazy adventures and awe-some views.
Wow. Another day of crazy adventures and awe-some views.
My tour left at 8:30 this morning (a bit more reasonable an hour) to go to the Perito Moreno glacier. We took a short busride through El Calafate - my current city of inhabitance - to pick up the rest of the passengers on our tour. I LOVE IT HERE. The town is just so beautiful and peaceful. It's exactly what I needed after a bit of a hectic weekend in Buenos Aires. It's so...lodgy. My hostel is like a wood cabin - except with heated floors. Everything is just rustic and homey. The perfect place to relax and enjoy.
And...it's NOT THAT COLD HERE. Do you believe that Patagonia of all the places is where I am not cold and I am not wearing all of my clothes at once? After driving through town we started on our bus ride to the Perito Moreno glacier. We drove along Lago Argentino which was a beautiful shade of what I can only describe as crystal blue. Like Swarovksi or something. It just sparkled against the blanket white mountains. There were icebergs floating everywhere and the shore looked like a quaint arctic beach.
Our tour guide spoke to us about the history of El Parque Nacional de Los Glaciares and the wildlife that lives here. Apparently, pumas and condors are among the biggest animals that call Patagonia home. We even saw a few condors flying!! Their wingspan is about 3 meters long. Just imagine that swooping overhead. Powerful scavengers. Soon after I opened my eyes (the guide's voice put me to sleep a bit) and we were at the dock to take the boat across the lake to the glacier.
The glacier is AMAZING. It's just this huge carpet of ice bridging the gap between the shores of Lago Argentino. I also never knew how blue ice is. Ice glows blue. It's shimmering and irredescent and bright. And the shape of the glacier surface is brilliant. It's so random and jagged. Adds a bit of danger and fierce-ness to the sight of it. Once we pulled onto shore the cameras came out and our guides split us up into an English group and a Spanish group. I couldn't decide which to do since it's nice to meet locals and the guides speak better Spanish, but at the same time...the English group was smaller. Smaller = better when it comes to tours.
So I stayed with Marco for our English tour. Thank goodness I did. I met this awesome girl from Texas and a couple from England with whom she is travelling. We ended up spending the day together and we had a blast. Our guide led us up the shore to the map of the glaciers to explain to us the ecological facts and figures. Just as we turned our backs, the glacier ruptured. That's right. We heard a crash. Turned around. Dust and ripples in the water. A glacier rupture (extremely rare mind you) happened while we were there and we missed it. We were a bit disappointed. What are the chances of that happening again today? Marco was pessimistic: zero. Well...zero point five.
But it's ok. We were about to walk on the glacier!! It's the third biggest glacier in Argentina. So why were we on the third biggest? Marco thinks the publicity is best for Perito Moreno. Haha. That, and it's the easiest to get to. Perito Moreno is also a well-balanced glacier. It has a zone of accumulation and a zone of ablasion. Basically, Moreno has beaten global warming. As it melts, it also grows. In fact, sometimes it slides so far, it reaches the opposite shore creating a complete bridge and causing the water level of the lake to rize 15-20 meters. Pretty sick.
In preparation, we fastened our clampons. I felt like I was 5 years old again, getting ready to go ice-skating but with feet too little that they don't have skates small enough, so you wear clampons with your sneakers. We trekked down the shore and up onto the ice. I was WALKING ON THE GLACIER! You look really funny walking up a glacier. Marco told us to walk like ducks when going up and walk like monkeys when coming down. Basically, you have to keep your feet set wide apart so that you don't step on your own feet. You also have to take high steps so that your foot can come down with enough force that the clampons dig into the ice.
Trust me. You need to have your clampons stuck in the ice. The wind is so harsh here that it knocked people over. It's a cool feeling (and kind of funny) to stomp your feet into the glacier and feel the wind try to bowl you over and yet remain completely upright while other people - who didn't smash their feet in - blow all over the place in front of you. What can I say? I'm a natural glacier-walker. Haha. Or I just follow instructions and look like a duck and a monkey.
We walked by some lake/ponds on the glacier. The clearest water I ever saw. I felt like if I jumped in I'd fall straight through the earth and out the other side. (I don't know where that would put me, but that's just how clear and bottomless it looked.) Trekking through the ice was easier than I thought. I expected the ice to be really smooth and glassy everywhere, but it was pretty slushy where we were walking. We trekked in a single file line. It made me think of Vertical Limit or something. We went into a little ice borrow (see above left) and just hiked all along the craggy surface. Incredible. Then at the end, they served us alfajores and whisky. Hysterical. And they fill the whisky glasses with glacier ice. So I had a sip just to say I drank the glaciers. But whisky is not my drink. And I didn't even need it to warm me up!
And to think...when I was in Vegas I was upset that I couldn't go to the Ice Bar in the Mandalay Bay. Ha! I had whiskey on a glacier. In Argentina.
And then we descended the glacier and hiked through the forest for our late lunch. The view was just incredible. Imagine living in that log cabin and waking up to this every morning. Sigh. The song that popped into my head today was "The Prayer." Apparently, glaciers make me think of serenity, peace, grace and Charlotte Church.
After lunch we re-boarded the boat and the bus to drive to the balcony view of the eastern side of the glacier. OMG. They really should do this part of the tour first. Because you see Moreno from above and you think to yourself "I want to walk on that." Incredible. Jan and I (that's Texas girl) walked around the balconies for a while. When we heard a crash. OMG. OMG. It was happening again. Guess it's my lucky day since there was a 0.5 chance!! We saw part of the rupture this time. We watched the ice crash into the water, though we missed it break off the glacier. We got to the lowest balcony and just stood in awe. The glacier is larger than the city of Buenos Aires, it just extends as far as the eye can see until it blends with the clouds hovering over head.
We decided to start making our way back up through the trees to the bus. And then...a crack. OMG. Again?? We missed it. Damn trees. So we RAN back down to the low balcony to get a full view and not miss it. Could it really happen four times in one day? Yes. Yes it can. The last and final rupture was the coolest thing I have ever seen. This massive slice of glacier from the surface to about 3/4 of the way down just cracked like a paint chip off a wall and sagged and dropped in slow motion into the lake causing the entire lake to wave with the impact. I wish I had it on film....
And that was how we ended our day. Rupturing glaciers. Intense.
BESOS!
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Bungee on the Bridge!!!!
Well, I had to go in the afternoon since I was going solo and there was no morning group. I was so amped up and ready to go by the time the van came to get me at 3pm. We drove an hour and a half to the bridge in Dique Cabra Corral. The bridge sits over this gorgeous river between two mountains. The girl in the same van as me bought the "adrenaline pack" so they had her do repelling, puenting and ziplining before I got set up. While she was, you know, having fun, a group of five other kids came to bungee.
Somehow I ended up first. Originally, I didn't think I wanted to go first, but when they told me I thought to myself, "Ok. Cool. I won't know what to expect since I haven't watched anyone, making it all the more fun and new." They locked me into my ankles braces and I climbed up onto the metal platform that extends perpendicular to the bridge. I looked down. It really wasn't that far. And the river looked soft just in case, haha. Really, it was only about 140 feet. Less than I had repelled over cold hard rocks.
I stood with my toes hanging over the edge and my fingers gripping the side railings. I raised my arms up...and had to put them back down and take a deep breath. Standing up there and leaning the tiniest bit forward without falling is way scarier than actually falling. But I told myself that it would be awesome and that I should just dive off like Pocahontas dives off that cliff in the beginning of her movie.
So I lifted my arms superman style and leaned forward. When I started falling I closed my eyes tightly. But when I felt like I was flying I opened them. INCREDIBLE. I opened my eyes before the bungee cord rebounded back on my body. Unfortunately, I didn't touch the water at all. I wanted to hit it with my hands...but they must have miscalculated my weight. Oh well. The water was way too cold to dunk. WAY too cold. Even the guys from the company told me not to dunk.
So the bungee pulled back and I kind of bounced around and spun and swung back and forth. It's the strangest feeling because you are just hanging upside down with no point of reference as to where you are in the world. SO exhilerating. I loved it. I got in the boat afterwards and then ran up all of the stairs from the dock to the top of the bridge. I was jumping and running around. My heart was raising, my lungs were pumping. The adrenaline felt awesome.
Really, the jump was no big deal. The feel itself is fantastic, but the jump itself...I don't know. Not terribly extreme. I'm super glad I did it.
Video footage to follow.
BESOS!
Somehow I ended up first. Originally, I didn't think I wanted to go first, but when they told me I thought to myself, "Ok. Cool. I won't know what to expect since I haven't watched anyone, making it all the more fun and new." They locked me into my ankles braces and I climbed up onto the metal platform that extends perpendicular to the bridge. I looked down. It really wasn't that far. And the river looked soft just in case, haha. Really, it was only about 140 feet. Less than I had repelled over cold hard rocks.
I stood with my toes hanging over the edge and my fingers gripping the side railings. I raised my arms up...and had to put them back down and take a deep breath. Standing up there and leaning the tiniest bit forward without falling is way scarier than actually falling. But I told myself that it would be awesome and that I should just dive off like Pocahontas dives off that cliff in the beginning of her movie.
So I lifted my arms superman style and leaned forward. When I started falling I closed my eyes tightly. But when I felt like I was flying I opened them. INCREDIBLE. I opened my eyes before the bungee cord rebounded back on my body. Unfortunately, I didn't touch the water at all. I wanted to hit it with my hands...but they must have miscalculated my weight. Oh well. The water was way too cold to dunk. WAY too cold. Even the guys from the company told me not to dunk.
So the bungee pulled back and I kind of bounced around and spun and swung back and forth. It's the strangest feeling because you are just hanging upside down with no point of reference as to where you are in the world. SO exhilerating. I loved it. I got in the boat afterwards and then ran up all of the stairs from the dock to the top of the bridge. I was jumping and running around. My heart was raising, my lungs were pumping. The adrenaline felt awesome.
Really, the jump was no big deal. The feel itself is fantastic, but the jump itself...I don't know. Not terribly extreme. I'm super glad I did it.
Video footage to follow.
BESOS!
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